Passage Geffrey Didelot

View of Sacre Coeur from Boulevard des Batignolles

One of Paris’ most charming destinations no matter the weather, Parc Monceau

The most delicious meringue I’ve ever tasted! And so fresh!

For a moment I forgot I was in a city – Parc Monceau was so quiet and still, and dowsed in the rich fragrance of nature.

Turns out Saturday is becoming my weekly venture out into discovering the city, my escape from the stress and drama of being immersed in a grad school of my second language.

So off I was again, heading out under the promise of clear blue skies and a tinge of warmth in the air – the first day in Paris with any indication that Winter is moving on. Inclinations lead me to the 17th arrondissement with a few addresses to check out and a whole lot of curiosity to interrupt along the way.

The 17th will always be a special quartier for me: it was the first neighborhood I lived when I moved to Paris over four years ago. And I’ve yet to really explore it since I’ve moved it back. The streets were quiet, the grey of Paris keeping the city in a muted lull. I weaved here and there following only my instincts. A rythmic motion in a light-filled window captured my eye. I turned to investigate and to my delight two women where playfully tossing the finest white chocolate shavings around freshly-frosted cakes.

Captivated, I stepped through the door and was instantly enveloped in the sweet fragrance of chocolate and meringue. Unbeknownst to me, I had waltzed right into the center of Aux Merveilleux de Fred – the famous patisserie whose meringue is like a light pillowy treasure beckoning the sweetest of dreams. I walked out with my treat carefully folded in gold wrapping. I knew just the place to enjoy it!

Parc Monceau is this lush haven amid the hustle of Gare St Lazare and Boulevard des Batignolles. Sitting on a park bench, I savored the green, such a welcome break from the hues of sandstone and grey. With the threat of rain, the scent of the lush grass carried through the air. I embraced the freshness of nature as each bite of meringue melted in my mouth.

Darkening clouds overhead, it was time to find cover! Checking back at the weather when I got home, looks like Paris has a few more winter hurtles to overcome before our eyes, so accustomed to life without color, are awakened by the rich pinks and greens that encompass Spring. Here’s to brighter days!

Carnet d’adresses:
Aux Merveilleux de Fred • 7 rue de Tocqueville • Métro Villiers

Classes have been out this week for a much deserved break after finals the week before. I have lots I should be doing… such as my dissertation. But one can only spend so much time engrossed in work, especially when living in Paris. So I beckoned to the call of the Rive Gauche.

The narrow streets of the Latin Quarter were quiet and I was often the only one peering curiously into the windows of the Asian and African art galleries clustered on Rue Visconti. No matter how many times I pass by here, I’m struck by all the new details it seems I missed the time before: the little design shops on Rue de Seine, an art restorer’s atelier, the latest in street art decorating the sandstone walls that frame the medieval streets.

Hands frozen despite my purple leather gloves, I stopped to warm up with an espresso at an artful café called Palette, a distant neighbor to Les Deux Magots and Café de Flore both located at the heart of St Germain des Prés. Palette claims to have been visited by the same masters of Modern Art, Cézanne, Picasso et Braque, later by Ernest Hemingway et Jim Morrison and even today by Harrison Ford and Julia Roberts. Perhaps. But on this day, I was one of only a few warming up under the heat laps at the terrace.

My promenade ended with a trip to the Taschen book store. No ten pound contribution to my library this time though the signed photographs by Steve Shapiro certainly captured my attention. Soon I was back home, settling in to study for a few more exams I have after the vacation. Turns out the French are not the best at organizing a consistent and clear schedule…

Paris is one of the most notorious cities in the world for falling in love. That reputation can leave the single girl feeling awfully sorry on a day like today. But even a single girl does not have to be left out of the day devoted to love, chocolates and lace. And certainly not in Paris!

This Valentine’s Day it seems appropriate to quote the fallen star, Whitney Houston whose wise words remind us of the greatest love you could ever cultivate:

“I found the greatest love of all inside of me,the greatest love of all is easy to achieve. Learning to love yourself, it is the greatest love of all.”

Today, single or not, put the self-critic away. Instead, shower yourself with reminders of the beautiful, unique and wonderful person you are. For a sweet reminder that you are worth it, and a little indulgence, treat yourself to a little joie de vivre. And for each bite of delicious chocolate today, pay yourself a meaningful compliment. After all, you deserve it!

Here are some great Paris recommendations on where and how to celebrate your Valentine’s Day:

Recently a friend and I met for chocolates and pastries at La Chocolaterie de Jacques Genin, a little chocolate and pastry café in the Marais. The millefeuille praliné was so divine I can still hear the sound of it crunching apart as we savored every last morsel. What I love most about Jacques Genin’s is the ambiance: there was no inclination that it was time for us to move on even long after the pastries had disappeared.

Anything “praliné” promises to be delicious!

La Chocolaterie de Jacques Genin • 133 Rue de Turenne (3rd) • Métro: Filles de Calvaire

Henri Le Roux began his journey in Brétagne, specializing in the art of the caramel beurre salé (salted caramel) even going on to win the title of Meilleur Chocolatier de France (Best in France) back in 2003. His shop in Paris is long overdue! For more, read about David Lebovitz’s discovery of Henri Le Roux in Paris.

Henri Le Roux Chocolates – Image © David Lebovitz

Henri Le Roux • 1, rue de Bourbon le Château (6th) • Métro: Odéon or Mabillon

A couple of weeks back, I wrote about my lovely chocolate-filled experience at Un Dimanche à Paris. Today it’s one of my favorite places to recommend to visiting friends and family because I know they’ll enjoy the light atmosphere and friendly wait-staff eager to share samples. I’m especially critical of milk chocolate and their’s left me completely speechless!

Indulging at Un Dimanche à Paris

Un Dimanche à Paris • 8 Cours du Commerce Saint-André (6th) • Métro: Odéon or Mabillon

Another favorite for a delicious taste of chocolate is Angelina’s. I wrote about brunch at Angelina’s, but I also enjoyed what HipParis writer, Tory Hoen had to say about indulging in a large cup of thick hot chocolate. The best thing about the location is that it’s right off of Tuileries. Even though it’s a bit grey out today, why not be romanced by the rain?

Angelina’s Hot Chocolate – Image © Benjamin Harrison.

La Maison Angelina • 226 Rue de Rivoli (1st) • Metro: Tuileries

While eating chocolates in Paris, why not read about them too? Kasia from Love in the City of Lights shares her thoughts on Paris, My Sweet: A Year in the City of Light (and Dark Chocolate) by Amy Thomas. I haven’t had the chance to read it (though I’ve been scouting the English book stores for a copy), but the one thing Kasia had to say to convince to add it to my library is that Amy Thomas knows what she’s talking about when it comes to chocolates and pastries in Paris.

The latest book about living the sweet life in Paris

Wishing you all a Happy Valentine’s Day filled with love!

Last week for Fine Art Friday, I shared my love of details within a master’s painting and a little art history game we play to test our visual memory and knowledge of an artist’s touch. I shared close-ups of seven different paintings each on display at the Centre Pompidou in Paris* and asked you to play along in guessing which artist was the master behind each painting.

Many of you surprised me with your answers! Works I thought would be dead-giveaways proved to be the most challenging. While others I was convinced no one would get, well, at least one person did. Congrats to readers Vivi and Kasia who guessed four correctly – not bad! If you have yet to guess yourself, click over to the first post before scrolling below! Wouldn’t want to spoil the fun!

Oh, and as for that master piece app I mentioned? I recently downloaded it and I have to admit it’s keeping me happy on the metro on my to and from classes. I’ve also added Thomas Hoving’s Master Pieces to my Wish List. What can I say, I’m an art nerd.

You’ve been waiting long enough! Here are the paintings: How well did you do? Are you surprised at how many you got right? How about the one’s you guessed wrong?

Painting 1

Marc Chagall (1887-1985), Les Mariés de la Tour Eiffel, 1938-1939

Painting 2

Henri Matisse (1869-1954), Auguste Pellerin II, 1917

Painting 3

Wassily Kandinsky (1866-1944), Gelb-Rot-Blau (Yellow, Red, Blue), 1925

Painting 4

Chuck Close (1940-), Arne, 1999-2000

Painting 5

Henri Matisse (1869-1954), Figure décorative sur fond ornemental (Decorative Figure with Ornamental Background), 1925-1926

Painting 6

Mark Rothko (1903-1970), Untitled [Black, Red over Black on Red], 1964

Painting 7

Cy Twombly (1928-2011), Achilles Mourning the Death of Patroclus, 1962

Be sure to check out the Centre Pompidou for exciting expositions and their amazing permanent collection compiled of masterpieces from Modern and Contemporary Artists. After all, there is no better way to study art than standing in front of it!

*The first image is a Pollock in MoMA’s permanent collection.

The idea of owning an Hermès scarf always seemed intangible to me. The luxurious handmade carré can easily go for $500, far above my budget for a little accessory. I’ve even stumbled upon vintage scarves at vide-grenier and brocantes (each like flea markets) but even still prices were way beyond my reach for a fashion “impulse” buy.

Imagine fashion-hungry Parisians tearing away at these meticulously handmade scarves as if they were the panty bin at Victoria Secrets.

During my first year in Paris four years ago, I learned however that there was a better way to get my hands on these prized Parisian staples. The charming French lady, warm smile crowding out the wrinkled that threatened to reveal her age, once mentioned that Hermès hosted an annual sale in Paris. My mouth dropped to the floor as she painted the scene of fashion-hungry Parisians tearing away at these meticulously handmade scarves as if they were the panty bin at Victoria Secrets. How could anyone “tear at” these fragile and delicate silk square?

Unfortunately by the time she mentioned the sale, as casually as you might a coupon for a free Krispy Kremes, it had already happened meaning I’d be leaving Paris before I got the chance to fight for my own brightly colored carré at 50% retail prices.

Flash forward to my time in Provence last year. It was late January if I remember right, and I’d scheduled a trip to beloved Paris which just so happened to coincide with the oh-so-mystical Soldes Privés d’Hermès. I was so excited – I’d plotted for weeks about venturing out early in the morning to have my fair fight. I’d saved, I’d planned, I was fearless and ready! But the day before my scheduled train, irony struck and I fell too sick to travel forcing me to cancel. Once again, I’d lost my chance at the perfect Paris souvenir.

Finally, after moving to Paris over the Fall. After all this time I had not forgotten about the sale and as the dates for Winter Soldes were released, I began the planning… I’d slowly stashed away enough money and made sure my schedule was cleared. After four years of dreaming for the day I’d get my chance to own an Hermès scarf, I was not going to let it slip by me again!

I arrived early, waited in line after line, battled women who were pro (and not so pro) cutters, was pushed, elbowed, squished and downright exhausted. But by 2pm I was leaving, head high, with my Hermès shopping bag in tow. I scored a brightly colored Carré that pops against the grey of Paris. It’s just a small scarf, and yet it’s so much more…

The line of anxious shoppers…

Men’s ties in every color of the rainbow!

My prized Hermès Carré

For information on the next Hermès Ventes Privées – follow this website.

Image at the top courtesy of Igaru.

In Art History, we were required to know the artist just by the style of the painting. While most of us can tell a Monet by his voluminous brush strokes and cool color palette, some artists can be quite difficult to differentiate. Take Braque and Picasso for example. The two painted side by side in the early 1900′s and the results can be hauntingly identical. None the less, we eventually learned to the tell the slight differences between Braque’s color palette and Picasso’s lines.

As classes became more advanced, recognizing the artist became second nature. Recently, however, I learned about a game Thomas Hoving, late director of the Metropolitan Museum of Art would play to keep his mind quick: Instead of guessing the artist by looking at the painting’s entirety, he would view only a small section (which he published into a book for our own amusement). The “game” has captured the attention of art lovers and visual-learners alike – so much so there’s now even an app for it (iPad and iPhone compatible).

This Fine Art Friday, I’m giving you the opportunity to feel the same sense of satisfaction that comes with learning an artist’s unique approach to the canvas. It’s up to you to guess the artist and next week I’ll show the paintings in full.

One more thing, each of these are currently on view at the Centre Pompidou (except for the Pollock above which is at MoMA). If you’re in Paris, why not head over there to take a closer look for yourself? I bet you’ll be delighed!

Can you tell who the artist is for each of the images below? Share your answers below!

Painting 1

Painting 2

Painting 3

Painting 4

Painting 5

Painting 6

Painting 7

So what do you think? Any guesses?

Luxury hotels that capture the essence of the Holiday with elegant décor.

The snow covered trees outside of the concept store, Merci.

Winter white and pure gold that decorate the inside of the Shangri-La.

Charming quartettes serenading shoppers with Christmas classics at Printemps.

Luxurious shops along Saint Honoré like Caron with their mesmerizing winter scenes.

Children who begrudgingly comply with parent’s wishes to sit on Santa’s lap.

Christmas markets across the city offering delicious treats of vin chaud and pain d’épices which warm my hands and delight my palette despite the cold winter evenings.

Ladurée who dazzles each passerby to spontaniously decide that this moment is as good as any to stop for a treat.

And then another….

And how about some more?

Hermès for drapping us with dreams of luxury in the window decorations by world renowned artist Leila Menchari.

And who inspires my Christmas Wish List to reach new heights.

Despite each of these wonderful things in Paris, my #1 favorite thing is spending time with close friends and family… and my cat. And chocolate.

Last year I watched my family open presents from Skype while I was wrapped up in a huge pile of blankets, cold and lonely in Provence. Missing out this year was not an option. So today I’m off to the USA to spend the Holidays with my family. Next time you hear from me, I’ll be sitting near the Christmas tree sipping hot chocolate dowsed in marshmellows and listening to Christmas classics…. all the while overflowing with Christmas Spirit.

May you have a wonderful Holiday Season filled to the brim with happiness and cheer!

What are a few of your favorite things?

The first time I ever ate a roasted chestnut was during my first winter in Paris. Until that moment, it had never dawned on me that despite the million times I had sung “Chestnuts roasting on an open fire, Jack Frost nipping on your nose…” Chestnuts had never been apart of making my Christmas season bright.

With childlike curiosity, I pealed away the crispy shell and munched on the delicious, sweet morsels steaming from their little paper bag near the Galeries Lafayette. The sharp chill in the Paris air dissipated as my face warmed with each bite and I felt as if I was partaking in a Holiday custom everyone else knew about, but somehow I’d been left in the dark. Alas, France had given me a new Christmas tradition!

The following year when I was home for the Holidays, I couldn’t wait to share my newfound passion for roasted chestnuts with my family. It was snowing outside, yellow flickers dancing on the walls from the warming fire, the Christmas tree stunning in shades of red and gold. As the winter treats began to cool promising us comfort and warmth, we hovered over the cookie sheet with shared anticipation. Suddenly, the chestnuts were self-combusting in a violent flurry! *POP* *POP* *POP* Sharp shells pelting our faces and burning our cheeks. We took cover from the burning hot fleshly nuts, trails of steam in their wake as they began shooting across the room, splatting against the walls.

As we were cleaning up the bits of shrapnel, I realized I’d forgotten that the shells needed to be cut a bit before roasting… I suppose it does take a few years for a practice to really become a tradition.

And I suspect my family is quite happy (relieved?) to stick with peppermint hot chocolate.

Despite the mishaps, I still get really excited when I see little signs for Marrons Chauds at the French Christmas Markets. At Chartes for a day a few weeks back, I happily watched as the vender shuffled the browning nuts before walking away with a little paper bag warming my hands – I continued on with my Christmas shopping, cracking open the piping hot chestnuts, their shells assuringly marked with a large X, and munching on a foreign tradition that fills my French Winters with Holiday Cheer.

What Holiday traditions have you adopted from your travels abroad?