The first time I ever ate a roasted chestnut was during my first winter in Paris. Until that moment, it had never dawned on me that despite the million times I had sung “Chestnuts roasting on an open fire, Jack Frost nipping on your nose…” Chestnuts had never been apart of making my Christmas season bright.
With childlike curiosity, I pealed away the crispy shell and munched on the delicious, sweet morsels steaming from their little paper bag near the Galeries Lafayette. The sharp chill in the Paris air dissipated as my face warmed with each bite and I felt as if I was partaking in a Holiday custom everyone else knew about, but somehow I’d been left in the dark. Alas, France had given me a new Christmas tradition!


The following year when I was home for the Holidays, I couldn’t wait to share my newfound passion for roasted chestnuts with my family. It was snowing outside, yellow flickers dancing on the walls from the warming fire, the Christmas tree stunning in shades of red and gold. As the winter treats began to cool promising us comfort and warmth, we hovered over the cookie sheet with shared anticipation. Suddenly, the chestnuts were self-combusting in a violent flurry! *POP* *POP* *POP* Sharp shells pelting our faces and burning our cheeks. We took cover from the burning hot fleshly nuts, trails of steam in their wake as they began shooting across the room, splatting against the walls.
As we were cleaning up the bits of shrapnel, I realized I’d forgotten that the shells needed to be cut a bit before roasting… I suppose it does take a few years for a practice to really become a tradition.
And I suspect my family is quite happy (relieved?) to stick with peppermint hot chocolate.
Despite the mishaps, I still get really excited when I see little signs for Marrons Chauds at the French Christmas Markets. At Chartes for a day a few weeks back, I happily watched as the vender shuffled the browning nuts before walking away with a little paper bag warming my hands – I continued on with my Christmas shopping, cracking open the piping hot chestnuts, their shells assuringly marked with a large X, and munching on a foreign tradition that fills my French Winters with Holiday Cheer.
What Holiday traditions have you adopted from your travels abroad?













{ 15 comments… read them below or add one }
Haha, thanks for the chuckle this morning! Also, I have been dying to try them…never have, despite singing it all the time. Maybe still available in February?!
So glad to hear that I’m not the only one! I’m not sure they’ll be here in February but perhaps this is a new tradition to begin in your new home? Either that, or we found something to do together while I’m home for the Holidays! They sell fresh chestnuts at Whole Foods
I’ve never had them before, but I’ve been told there are simply amazing!
Delicious! And a bit sweet – not at all like a nut…
So happy to hear that I was not the only one being left in the dark!
We tried them for the first time in Paris last Feb. I was SO excited to try them – they were absolutely delicious. The unfortunate discovery for me was – turns out they make my throat itch. Isn’t that the saddest thing? I guess I’m stuck avec chocolat chaud.
Although, I am up for the adventure of making them!
Lovely post
Mmmm it was fun making them – I’ve had better luck with them in Paris than in the US. Somehow when in France, I remember to cut them a bit.
You win some, you lose some. But roasting these on the fire with warm socks, a cozy blanket, a good book and some hot chocolate would not be a bad way to spend a snowy day!
The first time I ever had roasted chestnuts was also for a European tradition, but a very different one! In Spain they are eaten on the evening of October 31st, to us Halloween but them better known as the night before All Saint’s Day. The tradition is people sit around at a friend or relative’s home and eat the chestnuts by the dozens, while also drinking of course!
I tend not to buy them on the streets myself though because of the price! If you find them in a supermarket they are much much cheaper, and easy enough once you learn the trick about cutting a little X in the side
That sounds like fun! It’s interesting how different countries use the same foods for different traditions. I’m actually quite surprised that so far that each of the commenters on here never really grew up with them either! It seems like someone would if it’s the first line in a traditional Christmas song! Is this a lost tradition? Only a tradition in certain North American regions? Now I’m really curious… and I’m also going to give them another try with my family when I get home! With some vin chaud, I think everyone will be happy!
Watched one of the Indian’s cooking them in front of Galeries Lafayette on Monday. They put a very large can (the sort you get ghee in) in a supermarket trolley with a large platter on top. The burning coals are in the can and the result is always perfect! I’ve tried to make them myself quite a few times with mixed success. I’d say there are two main criteria: the chestnuts themselves which vary considerably – they need to be quite big and stored correctly – and the cooking method. Making them in an oven or micro-wave does not always produce the hoped-for result. An open fire and a chestnut pan (it has holes in the bottom) is better, but you have to but the chestnuts on glowing embers and not on the fire. You do, for course, have to remember to slit them!
Great suggestions! Since I first discovered them, I’ve only had access to an oven and I thought they turned out delicious. I’ve also heard that you can wrap them in foil and place them over smaller flames for great results. By the galeries, they have what looks like metal trash can lids that they’ve punctured holes that they place the chestnuts on top of for slow roasting. Never have tried the mircowave… but I don’t think a microwave is good for anything when it comes to cooking. Happy roasting!
I never tried marrons until I moved to France and let me just say, the people of England are missing out. So delicious and somehow creamy in texture. A real treat.
Apparently us anglophones are really missing out! I propose everyone roast chestnuts this year – bring the tradition back!
Hear, hear!
So happy to discover your blog! I’ve been browsing through your posts and kicking myself (again) for missing the event at Sugarplum. Wish I didn’t have to travel out of town then. I live 30 minutes from Paris and I can’t wait to keep going into the city whenever I’ve a good enough excuse (or the weather is favourable enough). Right downstairs from where I live are half a dozen chestnut trees! My friend and I used to go picking in Sept/October when they were in season.. The first time I made them, I had those chestnut bombs going off in the oven as well as in my living room. A bit scary and hilarious at the same time… I can’t wait for the trees to bloom again and roast those chestnuts..
Making roasted chestnuts from nuts I collected myself would be so much fun! We had a walnut tree when I was a kid but I never did like them… Chestnuts would be a different story! Hope you make it to Paris soon to enjoy the festivities! Though I’m sure where you live they have a few events to look forward to??