My Provençal Village: Lorgues

There came to be only one simple expression that seemed to adequately convey my frustrations with life in bitty-village Provence: Oh, Lorgues. Oh, Lorgues. Oh my Lorgues. What more could I say? When I finally arrived with a car my final few days, it just seemed so stupid that the places I’d been dying to visit all year where a mere 15 minute spin away. All that waiting and no triumphant victory to patch over the agony that was my winter in Lorgues.

Rooftop view of the village from the lovely terrace of a friends home.

But the truth is, I realized just how much I’m going to miss Lorgues when I returned to my little village dwelling late May. I’ll miss the lady at the grocery store that was always happy to see me once she knew I was more than a tourist. I’ll miss chatting through the shuttered windows with my Norwegian neighbor. I’ll miss the chatty ladies at the post office. I’ll miss the flowering ivy growing down and over my open windows.

The colorful old center of the village with the old Mairie.

There are two clear seasons in Lorgues (perhaps even Provence). The winter season is cold – for the life of me I have not figured out how early settlers decided to, well, settle here. Or at the very least built little stone houses (much like townhouses) without central heating, insulation and fire places. I mean, hello?! Ok, so my apartment was built in the 12th century. But the tourists and many of the owners to the apartments in the center vacate the area and the village is more or less deserted. Even business owners take a winter hiatus from the chill; everyday I’d walk by this Moroccan restaurant I was dying to try, but it stayed closed until the seasons promised warmth.

Late Winter.

Love: Warm baguettes fresh from the oven of the best boulangerie in village. Hate: Fresh baguettes now freezing and hard after walking from said boulangerie chez moi.

But then Spring bursts forth and within weeks the city is completely transformed. Tiny spots of green begin to sprout on the old trees. Flowers bloom and the sun slowly but surely moves overhead, bringing sheets of warmth with every new day. With the rising temperature comes a whole new influx of people I had not yet experienced in Lorgues (having moved there officially October 1). A variety of languages resonate through the narrow alleys. Abandoned buildings suddenly fill with light conversation, banter and laughter. Boarded up windows transform overnight into picturesque scenes with overflowing flower boxes and open shutters.

I was fascinated with every sign of the arrival of Spring – as if seeing it for the first time – and monitored every incremental increase in Celsius.

For me, a bit bitter after the winter chill and isolation, I had a hard time warming up to the idea that Lorgues could be half the charming place people swear it to be. Why Lorgues? But as I slowly thawed out, my appreciation for the little provençal village began to blossom. In time, I began to understand why Lorgues had such an allure to so many. Unfortunately, it just so happened to be in time for me to pack up my life in Provence and begin looking towards new horizons.

A restaurant mostly closed during my time in Lorgues, suddenly open and ready for business.

During Le Grand Voyage, I was happy to pass a few days in the village – this time with the all-too-coveted rental car I’d dreamed about for months. Sure a lot of the time was spent packing and cleaning, but the freedom to explore the nearby villages and wineries I’d only been able to here about was priceless!

A totally different experience.

So did I enjoy living in Provence? Not exactly. Would I repeat the opportunity? No. I’d consider Provence again but I’d make quite a few changes to avoid living through the same experience. Do I value the experience? Yes. I grew a lot as a person and in time I’ll see just how much. Am I sad to be leaving Lorgues? Yes and no. I wish I’d been able to stay there this summer… with a car. But I will never miss Lorgues in Winter. Is Provence really a beautiful and exciting destination in France? Yes!

A wonderful lunch on my patio late May with local produce purchased at Lorgues’ market.

Sure, there is no doubt I’m looking forward to the return to Paris and so happy to be leaving Lorgues behind. Though already I’m missing the sun (what’s up with this June storm?) and lots of sunny afternoons with a glass of Rosé (though for me, even in Provence these were few and far between). For the first time, I can understand why the villagers concurred life in Paris was just too rushed (and why they were the only not excited for me and my move). The initial grogginess from my hibernation in Provence is quickly wearing off as I race around Paris trying to secure an apartment, apply to internships, be a tour guide and take care of other loose ends with the move.

Oh Lorgues…

Tagged as: Le Grand Voyage, Living in France, The Var