If I told you I just visited a small town where people hundreds of years ago had dug their homes out of rocks and that these caves just so happened to still be occupied today, you might think I’m somewhere in New Mexico… but in fact I’m still exploring the vast and rich region of Loir-et-Cher.
Bienvenue à Trôo: a great destination for a half-day trip in the Loire. There’s not much here, after all it truly is what I’d call a village, but it’s mind-boggling to imagine what living in caves dug out of the rocky hillside would be like and a multitude of questions fill my mind: is it cold during the winter? Is it dusty? Do stalactites and stalagmites double for chandeliers and the legs of coffee tables? What about plumbing?
Most homes only have one door and one window. Though it seems it’d be dark inside, many have expanded their entry ways such as this one in order to optimize on the sun.
Curious to see what life in a cave is really like, we set out exploring the peaceful streets winding through the sleepy town. Personally, I found the idea un peu bizarre, but Trôo was so full of charm, sunlight and flowers that I began to change my mind not far into our promenade.
I soon learned, thanks to some local friends, that little more than 300 people continue to live in this tiny village. Today there are only about 12 caves are occupied (and saw some for sale if you’re interested in something completely new). Only few dwellings are open to the public on a daily basis, one of which is the local, since abandoned, boulangerie. Though set in a cave, it still had the air of any typical boulangerie found in France. Neatly carved into one of the corners was still the old fashioned wood-burning stove that once upon a time filled the air with the delicious scent of freshly baked baguettes and croissants.
The little cathedral at the top of Trôo. There is a great view up the lined path of the hill just next to the church promising stunning views of the surrounding valley.
A local museum offered a great opportunity to see how exactly home in a cave should look. What surprised me most was that it was not dark as I had presumed though even I, an average height girl, was surprised to find myself ducking while navigating through the entry way and into the kitchen. How the family that had once filled these man-made chambers with laughter managed to get a grand piano through these narrow passageways and into the living room is beyond me!
Cave Yucca is the one attraction in Trôo that you cannot leave without visiting! This is to say that it’s really Trôo’s only attraction…
For a home in a cave, it was surprisingly… typical. The family that last lived here moved out nearly 70 years ago and yet the kitchen seemed rather lively and equipped to provide a savory dinner to expectant, hungry guests. There was a master bedroom and a children’s room joined by a bathroom/vanity room. However plumbing was apparently still unavailable even in the 1940′s – these were clearly the days of the chamber pots for Trôo. To say the least, it was simple. But there was no doubt a charm that settled upon each of the guests who drawn by insatiable curiosity, trying to imagine modern life in a cave.
As families grew, they would simply carve a new room out of the soft rock. How’s that for home expansions!
Intrigued enough to visit? I have to recommend you come during the summer when the residents of Trôo open up their homes caves to the public for a music festival, complete with live bands and refreshments! I noticed plenty of charming bed & breakfasts nestled in the many quaint nooks and crannies of Trôo. Certainly it has its allure for tourists; after all, who returns from a trip to France explaining that their charming hotel was in fact a cave? The most recommended accommodations are to be found at Côté Sud (named for the side best to have windows facing to optimize the sunshine). If longing for more than a walk through the town, yet not ready to spend the weekend as a cave-dweller, then I recommend a delightful dinner at the Auberge de Château. However, no matter how you choose to spend your time, Trôo is certainly one of the most unique places to visit in France.
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Oh, how pretty…I love this little town. Looks like you’re having an amazing time in the Loire. The cathedral is gorgeous & would love to visit the caves, thanks for sharing this!
You’ve been there? It’s something I never thought I’d see – in France or anywhere for that matter so I quite enjoyed the idea.
Enjoyed a perfect afternoon checking out each of the little details.
Wouldn’t it be neat to go to the music festival?
I’m totally intrigued! What a fascinating and lovely looking place.
I just found out that the Loire isn’t the only area in France where people live this way… there is another village in Provence though it’s even smaller!