Ile Saint Honorat

A short ferry ride from Cannes awaits two lovely little islands worlds apart from the star-studded city of the renowned cinema festival that attracts celebrities from around the globe. Heading for the dock at Boulevard Jean Hibert and Rue du Port early Saturday morning, I bought my roundtrip ticket (12€ for one adult, 9,50€ for groups of more than 10) and headed out into the sea for a day wondering around the tiny island of Saint Honorat, home to only the 16 monks currently residing at the Abbaye de Lérins.

Sunrise off the port of Cannes

The history of Ile St Honorat as an island for sanctity dates as far back as the 4th century when France would still have been divided by various lost languages, and soon a France of the Capétiens, the Templars and Crusades. I find it truly amazing, and refreshing, that the monasterial status of the island continues to be honored, as if the island naturally hypnotizes visitors with peace and tranquility, solitude and devotion.

Fortified monestary off the rocky coastline of Ile Saint Honorat

The island is dotted with only few monuments that reveal its age: the old foundation of the forgotten Chapelle Saint Michel in ruins, multiple old chapels with their windows and doors securely barricaded, and old stone ovens used for heating cannon balls during Napoleon’s reign. While climbing the spiral stairwell of the absolutely magnificent fortified monastery, chants from the abbey carried in the whistling Mistral wind, as if the monks from hundreds of years passed had never left the island.

Exploring every inch of the 14th century monastery was a highlight on the trip and promises amazing views of the vineyards and Abbaye de Lérins

Walking along the trail, following the coastline on one side and the trees on the other, there is little to do but enjoy meandering, exploring and pondering the lives lived, and lost, on the island. For an island so rich with history, it still emits the pride of having been most untouched and unaltered over its long history. The loud cries from current demonstrations in the streets of France (we saw people lighting things on fire in protest while in Cannes while others stood around in the chill of the morning, as if warming around a bonfire – to which my French companions could only laugh and joke about in the lightest of attitudes, which I found equally amusing) never reached the island, only a mile off the shores of the mainland.

View of passing sailboats as we enjoyed our pique-nique

The best lunch on Ile St Honorat is a picnic and I was so fortunate to have my French companions with me on the trip. For the first time I had a glimpse of what it was to pique-nique à la française. In every way, it was a typical French lunch. We started with the apéro: chilled rosé (yes, even on a picnic, there was chilled rosé thanks to the ice-filled thermoses they carried in their backpacks) and small handfullsof chips and nuts. Then we slowly enjoyed our sandwiches (large slices of fresh bread filled with seasonal veggies, dijon and balsamic vinegar) and carrot sticks. Next came the fruit (apples and pears). This was followed with a cookie and hot coffee (thermoses again). The meal ended with a little piece of the richest, dark chocolate. The French sure now how it’s done!

The floral path leading to the marble church, Église Abbatiale de Lérins

After relaxing from our delicious lunch, we headed to the abbey. For the most part, it’s open to the public and visitors are welcome to quietly wonder through the colorful gardens to the modest church at the end of the path.

The modern monestary of the Abbaye de Lérin

While I find it a bit ironic, many monestaries throughout France are known for the production of wines and alcohols and the Abbaye de Lérins is no exception. Up to 25 monks reside at the abbey, working in the various vineyards yielding a variety of grapes that are then turned into expensive wines (mostly chardonnay and Syrah Mourvèdre) in the monks “secret garden” – which we were nosey enough to stumble upon while exploring. A charming, good-humored monk soon found as and escorted us back to the main pathway while filling the would-be-awkward air with light conversation and banter.

With the harvest over, few grapes still dangle from the vines. While I was told wine grapes would be sour, these were absolutely the most delicious grapes I’ve ever munched on!

The ferry to the island leaves multiple times throughout the day, the last one leaving the island at 5:30pm. You can buy your tickets in advance or at the port. It’s low season now in the Riviera so we had no trouble securing a place but I’m sure in the summer spaces fill up quickly. While a wonderful, sunny island, it’s not the island for sunbathing as the shoreline is full of sharp rocks and the surrounding ocean rich with jellyfish searching for things to eat… and sting. There are no hotels on the island and camping is not allowed, leaving Ile St Honorat to be enjoyed just as a day trip – but it’s a day trip well worth the effort!

Tagged as: Cannes, Ile St Honorat, Les Alpes-Maritimes, Travel